Simple Pleasures: The Joy Of Riding Small Waves
Simple Pleasures
All things of the universe are miracles, each as profound as any. – Walt Whitman
After a winter full of waves, barrels, and frigid cold, I always welcome the summer months with open arms. Yet as the seasons change, the overall conditions of the surfing experience follows suit. Oftentimes we’ll be greeted with early morning fog cover as the waters have not yet warmed and the air temperatures are considerably higher than that of the ocean. The crowds begin to thicken, as surfers who don’t brave the long and harsh winters make their way back into the line up. Flat spells can also be an agonizing part of the natural cycle of change, but with a little knowledge of how breaks differ and a desire to seek out the purity of the ride, small wave sessions are a perfect way to keep us satisfied until the next proper swell hits.
Personally, there’s something about the simplicity of small waves that I find quite miraculous. Truly anytime we are walking, breathing, hearing, seeing, and thinking; it’s a miracle of existence. So adding all those experiences of the senses, coupled with being in the ocean while riding waves, makes it all that more profound.
When surfing small waves, especially waves that may be particularly gutless and weak, less is more is my personal rule of thumb. I’m trying to maximize the wave, getting the most I can out of it, and in doing so I need to do very little more than paddle into the wave, bottom turn, and set my line. With much less taking place, the feeling of holding trim, and gliding across the face till the wave completely dissipates, is a beautiful thing.
During these sessions I find myself appreciating things that I normally may overlook, as I’m not overly focused on the next batch of set waves on the horizon as I would be on a more solid day of surf. On this particular day that these photos were taken, I remember just sitting as I watched the sun’s light dance upon the glassy waters like numerous flashing diamonds. After so many months of cold, I took the time to fully appreciate what a blessing it was to have the warmth and rays of the sun shinning upon my face. There was even a moment when I caught my reflection, and in looking at the reflection, I could see I’ve aged since starting surfing so many years ago. Now I know my aging is obvious, I’ve been surfing nearly three quarters of my life, but there was a moment of recognition and realization there. Recognition that I’m happy to still be surfing, recognition that I still have that child like spirit burning inside me, the fire that has been perpetually stoked by my dedication to the path of surfing. I also realized each day is a blessing, each session a gift, because although I still may feel like that young grommet inside, my body is aging, and one day this body will die.
Embracing the life we have, truly living it to the best of our ability, staying true to our joy and heart, these are some of the greatest personal responsibilities we have to ourselves. In simplicity, we often find the greatest revealings of truth.
Keep surfing, even when it’s knee high.
All Photos: Fiona Mullen
Latest posts by Shawn Zappo (see all)
- RASA BHAVA - December 10, 2020
- Assorted Rides | Devon Howard - July 4, 2020
- Inside This Soft World | Dave Rastovich x Nathan Oldfield - June 23, 2020
Trackbacks/Pingbacks
… [Trackback]
[…] There you will find 54614 additional Info on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More Information here to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Here you can find 55073 additional Info to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Read More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Read More Info here to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Information on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More Information here to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Read More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More Information here to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Read More on on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Read More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] There you will find 10858 additional Info on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More Info here on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Info on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] There you can find 68369 more Info to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Here you will find 1915 additional Info on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Here you can find 76804 more Information on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Information to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More Information here to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Here you will find 46366 more Info to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Info on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Information on that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More here to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]
… [Trackback]
[…] Find More to that Topic: surfandabide.com/simple-pleasures-the-joy-of-riding-small-waves/ […]