Radical Times…

It was 4:30 in the morning, and we were on our way to the wave. The first light of the morning was showing. The sea sounded strong. We drove alongside the coast at full speed, about to reach the spot, full of excitement. As we came around the bend in the coastline, we saw a wave slowing down in the fog. Finally, we could see what had since then been a longtime dream. We followed the shoreline 100 meters, 200 meters, 500 meters. The wave seemed so perfect and static at the same time, it’s barrel spinning tight. We couldn’t help but to start screaming.

The bay became a sacred temple of endless tubes. I’d never seen anything like it. If there was ever a reason to believe in a higher power, this was the place to find it.

After ten hours of tubes and pure bliss, we had ridden the best waves of our lives. We felt like the happiest men in the world. The swell was slowing down, and it would be gone tomorrow. But that day was the day. Those memories are ones we will never be able to forget.

Staring – Kepa Acero / Natxo Gonzalez
Film & Edit – Igor Bellido
Music – Ember days by Arrows & Bullets

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Growing up in New Jersey, Shawn discovered and quickly immersed himself in the sub-culture of surfing and skateboarding in the mid 80’s. With a diverse and eclectic background, Shawn has walked the path of a competitive surfer, Hare Krsna monk, action sports industry player in NYC, DIY theology and religions major, and a touring punk rock musician. Now a father and self-proclaimed seeker of the “soul” of surfing, Shawn enjoys sessions with friends at uncrowded peaks along his home state’s shoreline and writing about his surf related experiences.

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