FIN LESS: Mikey Wright Wave-Sliding Friction Free
“All fixed set patterns are incapable of adaptability or pliability. The truth is outside of all fixed patterns.” -Bruce Lee
As I watch surfing evolve, it appears as if the past, present, and future are intersecting and merging into a timeless “now” state of being. Many surfers are enlivened by connecting with surfing’s rich roots as they reach into the past, re-imagining shapes and stylistic approaches from what they may feel was a more pure age. Others find their excitement in steadily pushing forward into surfing’s seemingly limitless progressive future and are performing maneuvers my generation simply couldn’t even have imagined. Than there are others, so openminded and talented that they can approach surfing from any angle, be it classic or modern, while riding all variety of surf-craft and conditions.
Witnessing this happening has me feeling very optimistic and electrified about the state of our culture, stoked to say the least.
Finless surfing is certainly going to the very seedling of the surfing family tree so to speak. The first surfers rode heavy, cumbersome, and what at this time may seem functionally primitive wave-craft that did not feature a fin of any kind. The skill the early surfers must have had to navigate such tools of wave sliding and gliding is certainly deserving of our highest respect.
Now many surfers are enjoying the finless approach to surfing, putting a modern twist on it with more functional equipment and radical fluid expressions. Check out this short film of Mikey Wright as he enjoys a fun session and blows minds, less the fin for stability.