Oceanic Lessons: Surfing, Freedom, and Transcending Ego

“Freedom is to stand naked at the moment, having no expectations, nothing to lose or to gain. The empty then is fulfilled, just…

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Why We Surf: Give Us Surfing or Give Us Death

As I sat there on the bluff, overlooking Emma Wood, staring down at the barely knee high onshore dribble rolling in with more…

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Maritime Meditations: Let Go and Get in The Flow

“First try to understand what a wave is, and then you can feel how this consciousness of waves can help you to enter…

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Hurricane Marie: Coping with Post Mega Swell Depression

Epic! Biggest South Swell in California in Ten Years!  Swell of the Decade!  High Surf Advisory!  Malibu Surfer Killed in Extraordinary Swell Event…and…

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A Search for Meaning, Part 1: Skateboarding, Surfing, Punk Rock, and Self Actualization

“People ask me: ‘What is punk? How do you define punk?’ Here’s how I define punk: It’s a free space. It could be…

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A Life Devoted to Surfing is a Life of Sacrifice

  What is surfing?  What is a surfer?  Why does surfing take up so much of our time?  I don’t know if I…

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Surfing: Temporal Escapism or Transcendent Arrival

“When we recognise the virtues, the talent, the beauty of Mother Earth, something is born in us, some kind of connection, love is…

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The Church of The Sea: Praise and Worship Through the Ritual of Surfing

“When one loses the deep intimate relationship with nature, then temples, mosques and churches become important.” -Jiddu Krishnamurti Human beings as a species…

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Ruminations: Pondering The Soul of Surfing

“When I was a young man I fell from social grace, or rather was pushed into deep water. Thereafter I became a rebel…

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Solitary Sessions: Finding Quietude In A Turbulent World

“To go out with the setting sun on an empty beach is to truly embrace your solitude.” -Jeanne Moreau At an early age…

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