It’s hellishly hot. The air is thick and sticky, the humidity seems like a thick sap dripping down the side of a tree.…
EVERYTHING & NOTHING | EXISTENTIAL RUMINATIONS UPON THE SEA
A human being is a part of the whole, called by us, “Universe,” a part limited in time and space. He experiences himself,…
Winter’s Frigid Revelations | Contemplations on Cold Water Surfing
As my alarm sounds on my phone, I can feel the draft of the stiff offshore winds beating their way through my old windows.…
Waves Of Change | Current, Flow, Change, and Letting Go
“The only way to make sense out of change is to plunge into it, move with it, and join the dance.” – Alan…
An Impetus for Change: The Dark Night of The Soul & Surfing
“There can be no rebirth without a dark night of the soul, a total annihilation of all that you believed in and thought…
The Ocean is My Temple: Communion With The Divine Through Wave Riding
“Communing with nature, dancing in the aquatic realm, immersed in the womb of Planet Earth, I have found the purest of joy while…
SURFING | Cleansing Away The Psychic Debris
“For whatever we lose (like a you or a me), It’s always our self we find in the sea.” ― E.E. Cummings Watching…
Now Trending: SHARKS | FEAR | MICK FANNING | J BAY
“The oldest and strongest emotion of mankind is fear, and the oldest and strongest kind of fear is fear of the unknown” ―…
The Zen of Tube Riding: Enlightenment in The Green Room
A row of set waves pushes in from the south. You align your vision down the beach, watching them bank off the jetties…
The Psalms of The Sea: Harmonizing and Learning From The Ocean
“You write your songs on the face of the waters; then you erase them. So does the poet when he is creating.” -Kahlil…