Soul Searching

The Art of Keeping a Surf Journal

When I was in about fifth grade my English teacher at the time had us keep a journal of our everyday activities.  It…

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Soul Searching

Why We Surf: Give Us Surfing or Give Us Death

As I sat there on the bluff, overlooking Emma Wood, staring down at the barely knee high onshore dribble rolling in with more…

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Yoga & Health

Step by Step: Mastering the Art of the Backside Bottom Turn

Backside surfing is the proverbial double edged sword.  Those who have it mastered are either goofy foots living in the northern hemisphere, regular…

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Soul Searching

Hurricane Marie: Coping with Post Mega Swell Depression

Epic! Biggest South Swell in California in Ten Years!  Swell of the Decade!  High Surf Advisory!  Malibu Surfer Killed in Extraordinary Swell Event…and…

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Soul Searching

A Life Devoted to Surfing is a Life of Sacrifice

  What is surfing?  What is a surfer?  Why does surfing take up so much of our time?  I don’t know if I…

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